“For hours you have drifted through the woods or crossed block fields, looked at promising boulders and then, with a heavy heart, continued to search until you finally found it: The line on the border between the possible and the impossible,” writes Bernd Zangerl, 47, Austria’s bouldering pioneer. With over 1,500 first ascents to his name, he knows a thing or two about finding the possible in impossible places.
Bernd has spent the past 15 years exploring the remote Himalayan village of Rakchham in Himachal Pradesh — the northernmost state of India — sussing out its potential and helping to develop over 560 boulder problems across 14 sectors, alongside his brother, Alex, Ladner Manuel, and others.
“When I began sketching the first topos in a simple Indian schoolbook — just rocks, names, and a few early ascents — I had no idea I was beginning the longest project of my life,” he says.
The culmination of a decade and a half of exploration is the recently released Rakchham Bouldering Guidebook, full of detailed topos, maps, photos, and stories, all a testament to the climber’s love affair with a hidden Himalayan valley which has quietly become a world-class climbing destination.
Below, we share an excerpt from the guidebook alongside some epic photos.
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Welcome to Rakchham
Excerpted from Rakchham Bouldering Guidebook by Bernd Zangerl. Used with permission from the author.
The 2025 Rakchham Bouldering Festival brought climbers from around the world. In the background, the Kinnaur Kailash massif. Photo by Kalpa Bhuyan.
The History
I once arrived in Rakchham in the middle of the night with my friends Fred Nicole and Elie Chevieux.
It was the end of April 2010 and a snowstorm made it impossible to drive further. Back in the days, the roads were wild and it was an adventurous journey into this hidden valley in the middle of the Kinnaur Kailash near the Tibetan border. At that night we found shelter and delicious food in the “Rupin River Hotel.” We were the only guests that time. The next morning welcomed us with clear blue skies and the sun quickly warmed our skin. The sight was unbelievable. The majestic 6,000 meter high peaks around me were covered in fresh snow which made them even more admirable.
Wild rock faces and towers were just a stone throw away and eagles circled above the village. The yaks where sitting in the snow, while the sheeps where running around in the village. And most importantly: I was surrounded by thousands of boulders, not knowing in which direction I should run first. Together with Fred and Elie I explored the village, and we climbed the first boulders that day.
Curiosity and my passion for climbing is what brought me here. A black and white picture from the 1950’s which showed the Bigwalls of the Raldang Range inspired me to a trip into this remote area in the Himalayas. Back then I didn’t know that this place would become my second home.
The village of Rakchham, situated at 3,150m, in the Kinnaur district located in the northeast part of the state of Himachal Pradesh, India. Photo by Ray Demski.
15 years have gone by since my first day in Rakchham. I came back every year, sometimes staying for months at a time – and I still haven’t checked out all boulders around Rakchham. My friends and I have established a bouldering and climbing area that is unique, precious and among the most beautiful places I have ever discovered. Some of my personal highlights can also be found in this sacred valley.
Most of them are unknown to the public simply because I didn’t publish anything from Rakchham in all those years. Now Rakchham is open to the climbing world and I am curious what the modern bouldering generation thinks of the climbs in this unique scenery.
Meet Rakchham
Nestled in the picturesque Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh, the village of Rakchham in the northern Indian Himalaya offers a unique and breathtaking bouldering and climbing backdrop experience. This area boasts a diverse range of granite boulders, making it a heaven for both experienced climbers and those who are about to start their journey into the art of bouldering.
Sport-climbing: Rakchham offers challenges for everybody. Even after 13 years of development, there is still untouched potential for the explorer who wants to find his own line.
The author with the Rakchham Climbing & Adventure Club (R.M.A.C.). Photo by Anshul Shyam.
From delicate slabs to powerful overhangs and from spicy highballs to ambitious trad, Rakchham has not only become a top destination for climbing but also offers a delightful escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life. The village, which is perched at an elevation of 3,120 meters (10,236 feet) above sea level, is surrounded by thousands of boulders and cliffs as well as breathtaking vistas along the banks of the Baspa River, which flows through the valley.
The site of the village, with its crystal clear rivers, lush green meadows, and majestic snow-capped 6,000-meter peaks looming high above, is paradigmatic of the untouched beauty of northern India.
Nature lovers and adventure enthusiasts will delight in Rakchham‘s picturesque hiking trails, allowing them to explore the surrounding mountains and experience the untamed wilderness firsthand.
The text below, written in Hindi. From the Rakchham Bouldering Guidebook.
For the People of Rakchham
For the locals this secluded valley has been their home for centuries. It has also become my home for the last 15 years. I am so grateful, that I was able to spent so much of my lifetime here in Rakchham. I want to say HOLA SE - ( =thank you ) for the warm welcome, the hospitality, the peace, the inspirations & wisdom I found here.
I wish that future climbers and tourists also find piece and freedom here in the wild mountains and in the ancient forests. Enter the heritage with respect to the people and the beautiful nature and you will be rewarded. Rakchham means ROCK-BRIDGE, so let Rakchham become a bridge between worlds and a bridge to a responsible outdoor future. We are all just guest here.
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Want to Support the Project?
Proceeds from the book and permit fees (should you visit) are reinvested into the local infrastructure and the local climbing club (R.M.A.C), which Bernd help found. This enables the community to take proactive steps in protecting their environment, fostering sustainable practices, and initiating eco-friendly initiatives. In 2023,, members of the club completed the Advance Mountaineering Course at the Atal Bihari Vajpayee Institute of Mountaineering and Allied Sports.
You can buy the guidebook here.
Bernd Zangerl is Austria’s bouldering pioneer and a true icon of the sport putting up 8C boulders, difficult highballs and 8c+ trad climbs. After brushing more than 1,500 FAs during his career, he is a driving force behind modern bouldering, blending raw movement, creativity, and a deep connection to mountains and nature. Author, producer, host, and speaker, Bernd has created multiple TV formats and published the world’s first book dedicated entirely to bouldering. After suffering a severe injury once considered medically incurable, Bernd made his comeback at the age of 40. You can follow him on Instagram: @berndzangerl
Feature Image: Bernd Zangerl climbing Shangri La, 8A, just outside the Himalayan village of Rakchham, India, near the Tibetan border. There are thousands of granite boulders in the area, framed by 5,000–6,000-meter peaks. Photo by Ray Demski.