Editor's Note: The late 1950s saw some of the earliest use of expansion bolts in the U.S., almost exclusively by pioneering climbers on big walls. By the early 1960s, as the practice was picked up by more climbers, big wall trailblazer and future founder of Patagonia Yvon Chouinard had seen enough. For the March 1961 issue of Summit Magazine, Chouinard wrote an op-ed, "Are bolts being placed by too many unqualified climbers?" reprinted in full below.
By Yvon Chouinard
During the past few years climbers have become justly concerned with the problem of ethics in the use of bolts in climbing. The use of expansion bolts is difficult to write about and must be treated in the same manner as social morals. The problem is not one of individual taste, but rather one which must be determined by the entire climbing fraternity and adhered to by everyone who climbs. In presenting this article I will attempt to convey my own thoughts and ideals on this subject.
The problem of bolts is very real and grave. Due to their low cost and their availability, they have been used far more extensively in the United States than in all other areas combined. Bolts have been used only recently in Europe and then only on large, severe walls such as the west face of the Petit Dru, Cima Grande direct north face, and the Roda di Vael by expert climbers. Here, in the United States, many climbers would feel undressed if they approached a rock climb without their "bolt kit."
Is Every Route for Every Climber?
The main objection to bolts is that they permanently mar the beauty of the rock. Bolts also enable inexperienced and unqualified persons to climb difficult routes, with comparative ease. Bolts are often a means of making up for inexperience and inadequacies, and I like to think that not every route is for every climber.
Bolts have three uses: as rappel and belay anchors, for protection, and for direct aid.
1. Rappelling: This should be a very rare use, as it is almost always possible to use bushes, trees, pitons, or a knob of rock as an anchor.
A bolt's only use should be on difficult sixth-class pinnacles where good pitons cannot be placed, or in life and death descents from large walls, where again good pitons cannot be placed.
In 1959, I observed a shocking misuse of bolts for rappelling. On the first ascent of Ship Rock only four bolts were used on the entire climb. Now, on one of the rappel points alone, there are five unnecessary bolts in place; three of which are Phillips type without hangers and two compression studs, also without hangers. None of these five bolts are well-placed, and it is possible to put in a good piton nearby.
2. Protection: Whether or not to put in a bolt for protection is a problem which is difficult to solve by an objective set of rules. If a climb has been done several times without bolts, even if it was only climbed by extremely well-qualified climbers, than this is an indication that bolts should not be placed by following parties. If a leader is confronted with a pitch that has been done before without the use of bolts, but feels that since the rock is icy, wet, or just too much for him to lead with any degree of safety, then he should simply descend rather than desecrate the rock with bolts, or risk a fall without them. A route doesn't always have to go, and wet or icy rock or a less-than-expert leader is never an excuse for placing a bolt.
An outstanding example of an unqualified party choosing to place bolts because of lack of ability was a team of two climbers who, in 1959, climbed the Lost Arrow Chimney in Yosemite Valley. On one of the pitches, which is normally done free, the party placed six bolts, partially because of the wetness of the rock, but largely because of their lack of ability. The bolts themselves can be removed, but the holes will always be there.
On the first ascent, if the next lead looks like it will be very difficult, dangerous, and offers no chance for protection, and if the leader is an excellent and capable climber, then he is justified in placing a bolt. However, it is only justified if he thinks that it would be very dangerous even for a better climber than himself. For this reason, it is important for the leader to know his exact capabilities at that moment and to be able to judge a pitch on sight.
3. Direct Aid: The problem of misusing bolts on direct aid is one that can be solved in a far more objective manner, even though it is in this field that most of the misusage of bolts prevails. One of the biggest problems in American climbing today is that too many average, or even above-average climbers, are attempting direct aid climbs which are too difficult for their ability. This leads to bolts being put in place where they would not be necessary if the climber were more expert, and also ruining the route for the experienced climber who rightly belongs there.
Bolts Mar Reputation of Some Climbs
The Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite is a good example of what is happening on many difficult artificial routes in the United States. Several necessary bolts were placed by that great climber, John Salathe, on the first complete ascent. Through the years "climbers" have added more and more unnecessary bolts with the result that the reputation of this magnificent climb has somewhat declined. Because of the decline in the reputation of the spire less capable climbers attempted the route and still more bolts were placed until, in 1957, Mark Powell removed nine bolts which were not placed by Salathe.
Some of the many reasons why a party would want to place a bolt on a direct aid climb that has previously been done are: inexperience, a short leader, crumbled or overused cracks, or the lack of proper equipment. In none of these reasons, except perhaps in the rare case of crumbled cracks, is the placing of bolts justifiable. Often a route requires special pitons, such as knifeblades, wide angles, or short wedges. If this is the case, then this information should be included in the guidebooks. With the great variety of pitons being made, especially with the increasing use of alloy steels in their manufacture, it is possible to utilize cracks ranging from hairline thinness to over six inches wide. Lack of any type of piton or equipment is never an excuse for the placing of a bolt.
Only the very experienced and expert climber should even own a "bolt kit." It is incomprehensible for the average climber to know just what can be climbed safely by the expert on either free or artificial ground by utilizing small holds in combination with poor direct aid pitons, by pendulums around blind corners, tension traverses, arrangement of slings, and by the use of special pitons.
Never should a bolt be placed that is just good enough to enable the party to surmount the obstacle and to then come out on the next party. If it is necessary to place a bolt, it should be a good solid bolt of the nail type expansion variety. This type of bolt does not suffer from metal fatigue as does compression studs.
With the many types and sizes of bolts being manufactured, it is very inconvenient to carry the many types of nuts, screws, and hangers necessary. The standard use of one type of bolt would eliminate the necessity of mentioning the sizes and types used on various routes in the guidebooks. However, the guidebooks should mention the number of bolts in place to aid in preventing over-bolting.
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On the Cover: Wild-looking denizen of the desert
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